Costa Rica
This post was not as easy to write as other due to the fact that I didn’t take as many notes or photos as other trips. The decision to go to Costa Rica started in the early spring of 2015. At the time, the Spanish teacher I was working with and I were both looking to travel somewhere in Central America over the summer. Ater talking and looking over options we landed on Costa Rica due to its reputation for sustainability and eco-friendly tourism. We booked our flights from mid July to mid August, giving us a full month to explore this country. Finally July came after having the trip on my mind for most of the early summer. After departing from Chicago, we had a layover in Houston and some airport Mexican food for dinner. After that it was just a few hours of flight until we touchdown into San Jose.
It was nighttime in San Jose when we landed which was not the most comfortable time to be in Central America and not knowing where we were going. We got into a cab with very thin metal doors and gave him the hotel's address that we had previously booked. Passing through the city, we saw lots of barb wire and concrete. A few prostitutes standing on corners in neon green dresses were also seen. There was confusion with the street our hostel was on. Our taxi driver was lost as we headed up and down random streets and neighborhoods. Eventually we got closer and our taxi driver called the hostel and they got it sorted out. Some of the roads are not on GPS, so it can get confusing. I bet a lot of mail gets lost here. We checked in, had a Costa Rican beer and hung out on the patio listening to sounds of the city. I was exhausted and excited to see this place in the daylight. I crawled as silently as I could into a bottom bunk in a room of about six people sleeping in the coed room.
The next morning, I tip toed around getting my bearings of the room moving around people to find a bathroom and heading to a small breakfast buffet. Hostels are great places to meet fellow travelers and share stories. I talked with multiple people over hot coffee, fruit, and eggs about their travels. One couple started in Mexico and were working down through Central America. They had a quick timeline and had only been spending around three days in each country. It sounded exhausting and I could tell it had wore on them. So many people want to see it all and therefore sacrifice most of their time in airports, on public transportation, and just tired. They were shocked to hear we were spending all of our time, about a month in just Costa Rica. To each their own; whatever make you happy.
We spend the remainder of the day exploring San Jose, so far unimpressive. As we climbed onto a public bus to get to the city center, I began to count the amount of men I saw publicly urinating. This was not the reason I traveled to the place. The main city center area is filled with stands of goods and souvenirs. I bought a beach towel that has a sloth on images of Costa Rican paper money. Following the markets, we checked out a variety of different museums in San Jose. It was a good way to pass the time. My mind wandered and thought about rainforests, animals, rivers, and the ocean. By mid afternoon we returned to our hostel, got our large bags, took a taxi to a bus center outside of San Jose, and purchased our ticket to Parrita.
Parrita was home to a friend of my friend. She was a teacher at a local school and had met my friend while teaching together at a Spanish camp in Minnesota. The bus ride from San Jose to Parrita took a couple of hours on smooth roads following the western coast. As we got closer I noticed miles and miles of African palm trees. Palm oil is one of the largest agricultural industries. It is shocking that even in eco friendly Costa Rica, so much rainforest has been cut down. We reached our final bus stop, got off, and somehow, through online communication, our host was there with her car. We headed to her home. She lives down the dusty little road. We talked, had drinks and ate a traditional dinner. Costa Rican casado is a staple dish consisting of rice, beans, plantain, and a meat. That night’s meat was chicken. The food tasted delish and sat well. We set up some sheets and crashed in the living room area. Tomorrow's plan is to head to Manuel Antonio National Park.
Morning comes quick and we grab our packs for the day with plenty of water. My skin is still adapting to the sun and humidity. I am soaking in sweat as we head to the bus stop. We hop on and we are on our way. The first sign that we are nearing the park is when we stop in Quepos the largest city near the park entrance. Swarms of traffic and buses are heading to the Manuel Antonio. We arrive at the nearest point to the entrance, pay a small fee and enter the park. Guides are for hire everywhere for a small fee. They carry poles with spotting scopes and communicate with each other along the well maintained trails where the animals are. We head along a main trail to a beach on the ocean. The hike is a little over a mile long. Within the first half an hour, I complete one my top goals for the trip. I see a sloth in the wild!!! It is high in tree and barely moving. I don’t know what it is about them, but I love them. As we continue hiking we see more animals, birds, monkeys, and snakes. The park is small in size but extremely populated with animals. We make our way to the ocean and relax on the beach in the sun. Advice to travelers who visit the beaches of Manuel Antonio: the monkeys are very sneaky and will steal any food you have in your bags. This is such a beautiful place, so you can see why it is one of the most visited places in Costa RIca. We continue to hike around the many trails of the park that lead to spectacular views of jungle and ocean. At one point I can hear howler monkeys howling to each other. We spot a subspecies of the squirrel monkey that are very endangered. I am thankful to see such a rare animal in the wild. Continuing on we see a large group of capuchin monkeys who are black with white faces. They do not like us walking so close to them. Suddenly the group of monkeys erupted in noise and the beginning throwing their poop and chasing us. Moving as quickly away as possible, we head out of the park. Cleaning up with a cold shower, as there is no hot water, feels amazing. One thing you get used too pretty quick in Costa Rica is little lizards everywhere. There really is no way to keep them out. I pass out from exhaustion, satisfied with my first Costa Rican rainforest experience.
The following day we head down to Dominical. On the way down we stop by a local food market and pick up our lunch. We have a Costa Rican tamale which is a banana leaf wrapped and tied around rice with your choice of cooked meat. It is quite a delicious and simple meal. We make our way down to an unpopulated, unspoiled beach. There’s no crowds, and the only foreigners are serious surfers who enjoy the laid back vibe. As I relax, cool off in the ocean, and drink coconut water, I make a crucial error. Normally I tan well despite being a white midwesterner. However my body had never experienced the sun's intensity this close to the equator. I applied sunscreen carefully but not carefully enough. I fall asleep and wake up in extreme pain. I large patch of my back is blistering. This is the most severe sunburn I have ever received in my life. My body is in shock. I kick myself for being so stupid, a hard lesson learned. For the rest of the trip my routine would revolve around putting aloe and other healing products on my back. We head to another town, Uvita, where the beach and shore looks like a whale's tail. It is a really unique place, how the tide rises and lowers itself around the rock formations. Google a view of it from above you will see that I am not exaggerating. We return back to Parrita for a painful night of sleep as my back continues to throb in pain.
The following day we set out to see some other sites in the area. We head north along the coast to the beach town of Jaco. Along the way we stop and cross over a large bridge that is a popular tourist spot to see crocodiles and there are a lot today. Some are larger than 15 feet. Crocodiles like these are only located in a few areas in Costa Rica. They are quite aggressive and in the past few years several people have been killed by them. According to our Costa Rican friend, the previous year two Nicaraguans went down the river for a closer look and were killed. We spend time safely high above the bridge admiring. We continue on and stop at a little restaurant that has a large fresh ceviche sign. Ceviche is raw fish minced and mixed up with lime juice, peppers, onion and cilantro. It is delicious and one of my favorite foods of Costa Rica. There is a risk consumed with eating raw fish but I did not have any problems throughout my trip. We head into Jaco and spend some time walking the beach and checking out the sights. We hike up a trail outside the city for a spectacular view of Jaco and the ocean. Spray painted graffiti is all over the concrete structure. Among the many things spray painted, repeated messages are in Spanish about foreigners needing to go home with their guns. It is clear that not all Costa Ricans are happy with the tourism boom to this city. Even with this message we decide this is going to be our next destination and find a hostel and get a room. We head back to celebrate our stay with our generous host at El Avion. El Avion is a very touristy restaurant outside of Manuel Antonio. The main attraction is that the bar and restaurant are built around an airplane. Originally funded and built by the United States, it was to help get guns to a rebel group in the 1980s to Nicaragua. Eventually it was shot down, purchased and moved by the restaurant owner. It’s a fun drink to celebrate a great start to our trip minus my aching sunburnt back. A good sign presents itself, the tree next to us has a sloth.
The following morning we say our goodbyes and head back to Jaco to our hostel to check in. The hostel is amazing it has a close access to the beach as well as fun hangout areas to read and relax. Another highlight is the restaurant, bar, and pool in close proximity to one another. The pool feels wonderful and I meet lots of different people. That's the great thing about hostels, even traveling alone isn’t lonely. However the downside to this is you can completely ignore the culture and people around you, by instead focusing in the comfortable bubble of westerners who speak English. I enjoy a large chicken nacho platter and cold beer while reading a book.
The next day I continued the same routine. A group of nurses in their 20s from Boston arrive on a girl's trip. I get the much needed attention and emotional support for my sunburnt back. I continue to meet more interesting people, including a guy who has spent the last two months living at the hostel trying to find himself. There is a community bond with some of the staff and the guests. I compare and talk tattoos with a bartender. She's a college student from LSU who is spending the summer working and surfing and Jaco. She lifts up the side of her swimsuit to show me the next spot she is going to a tattoo of a marijuana leaf. It is a comfortable group, and we head to a local jam band spot for a night of live music dancing and drinks.
The next morning we take local buses to Carara National Park. It is known for its larger numbers of Scarlet Macaws. Unfortunately we have to wait over an hour for the park to open outside the gates. Once we are inside the bird watching is limited, but I find a large number of poisonous frogs on the forest's floor. Ironically on our way back into Jaco there are three Scarlet Macaws in a tree next to our hostel. As a huge bird lover, I am amazed to see them flying freely in the day. I would later be inspired, getting a tattoo of a macaw. In the mid afternoon I continue my routine of pool, ocean, and nachos. My travel companion is not having the likes to this. “How long are you going to spend in the pool?” he asks me. He continues “I did not know you liked pools so much.” I understand where he is coming from, this was supposed to be a trip of immersing oneself into culture and adventure...but damn, I am just too comfortable like this. We make plans later that day to head out tomorrow. We find a hostel online in Monteverde and I book it.
The following is a full day of travel. This was a three years ago, so I lost certain details and remember others. I won't bore you with how long the bumpy school bus ride was, but the final stretch was insane. Climbing hills in the old bus with bald tires slipping on the mud. At one point we went backwards down the hill. Eventually we made it to the hostel, a few hours later. Monteverde is a city located right outside a cloud forest. The biggest difference between a cloud forest and rainforest is a cloud forest is at a higher elevation and usually much cooler in temperature.
As we check into our hostel, I look through multiple flyers and read information about a night safari. After being stuck on a hot bus all day I don't want the day to feel to wasted. I persuade my travel companion to sign up as well. We toss our things in our room and do some minimal unpacking. I learned quickly the way it works in Monteverde is the a lot of the good hostels and hotels are in the know with the good tour companies. They all work together, and in the current age of online reviews, aim to please. With all the recommendations our concierge gave us I was very happy. The night tour company arrives shortly to pick us up. We are fortunate that they have already stopped by the nearby hostel and picked up everyone else. The drive is relatively short and we arrive into dreary rainy weather. Heading into a building, we receive a flashlight and a light rain poncho. The guides all have walkie talkies to communicate where they see wildlife. We start under a tree where our guide pulls off a hercules beetle. The male beetles have long pointed rhinoceros horns that can act like pincers. I hold it in the palm of my hand, very cool to see up close. As we head onto a well marked path in the woods, the trees help protect from the rain. Our guide takes the lead and we listen carefully as we walk through. We stop under a tree where there is a large tarantula. The jungle really comes alive at night compared to the day. Sounds of other animals fill the air. Continuing on we catch glimpses of a kinkajou on the move; these animals have really cute faces. Moments later I come face to face with a green viper that blends way too well into the branches and leaves on tree. Our group returns back to the building we started in, drenched but satisfied in all the wildlife we saw. We make our way back to the hostel and crash from exhaustion.
We wake up to a buffet breakfast included with our stay at the hostel. The main eating area is open to the outside, a beautiful mistiness covering part of the trees of the cloud forest. The outside patio area is brick with natural wood furniture. I drink the coffee and breath in the fresh mountain air, exactly what I pictured when I thought of Costa Rica. We spend the morning exploring the downtown and shops in Monteverde. This place is tourist central and has been established for a long time. Being overrun with tourism does ease the culture shock, but also makes it feel artificial. It’s confusing. We plan to spend the early afternoon at Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve. We take a bus a few miles to the park. The park is crowded with high school exchange students loudly making noises. We get ahead of the large tour groups and take the less traveled trails. Hiking a mile and half, we reach an amazing vista point. Unfortunately it is mid afternoon and the trails are well traveled, so the chance of spotting animals is minimal. We head out of the park just as it closes and head back to the city center. On the way back to our hostel we stop at the grocery store to pick up a variety of snacks and drinks. I enjoy trying the different light beers from Central America. We hang out on the patio area and are joined by other hostel guests. Most of the other guest are European. Conversation goes late into the night.
The following morning we head out to the highly promoted longest zip line in Central America. We check in to Adventura park with lots of high school age students and other travelers. We get our gear checked and harnesses adjusted and go through a series of short zip routes to get our bearings. Zip lining is pretty simply all you need to do is kick your feet out and lean backwards. You can use your hand in a glove to slow yourself down and squeeze to stop the line. The workers are surprisingly professional as they click me in and check me over each time for each run. I wonder with the hundreds of people they see in a day if anyone has ever made any mistakes. Finally we reach the longest zip line which is called “The Superman”. They actually adjust your harness so the clip for the line goes on your back so you are face down over a canyon. I don’t have a fear of heights but this was insane. It was as close to flying that you can be. At the midpoint in the canyon the wind gusts and I feel an adrenaline rush sink in. Returning back and catching the bus to the hostel, I am feeling pretty good about myself.
Our afternoon plans are much more relaxed. We head for a coffee and chocolate tour at Don Jaun. I am huge coffee and chocolate fan so this was incredible. Learning the whole process around coffee in a sustainable way made me happy with our choice. Even if you do not like coffee I recommend going. The guides are extremely knowledgeable. The chocolate tour was not as thorough, but we did get to make our own small piece of chocolate which was fun. The whole afternoon activity was probably 2 hours and I purchased plenty of coffee to bring home. Returning to the hostel, we made peanut butter and banana sandwiches and relaxed on the patio reading a book. Each hostel has it’s own vibe. Some have guest that keep more to themselves. Others are focused on getting together to go party at clubs. This one I would describe as a causal intellectual stay in and drink type. Its great to hear different perspectives on how communities run and kids are raised around the world. Another advantage is hearing travel advice or tips which can make big differences. I got loads of great advice that I used later for route in Thailand from others who had been there.
The following morning we head out to Curi Court Reserve. It is a second growth forest located not that far away from Monteverde. We join a tour group with guide. As soon as we start to take off, my travel companion disappears. The effects from last night are clear, and he is struggling. We make our way through the well marked reserve looking for the rare Quetzal. The Quetzal is a green bird with a long tail and red belly. Our guide informs us that they are actually the national bird of Guatemala but were hunted there to extinction. Not even a half an hour into our tour we spot one high in a tree. The Quetzals main diet is a small type of avocado that's located in this reserve. Over the hike we spot over 5 different ones. This was another of the biggest highlights of my trip. We continue to see a large variety of birds. The lowpoint of the trip comes when we accidently go through a crossing of army ants. One gets in my pants leg and delivers painful bites, a reminder that there is still some bite left in this disneyland ecotourism capital. Monteverde was actually originally founded by United States Quakers who are pacifists and did not want to serve in the Korean War. Eventually it turned into a biological research station which led to tourism for its vast variety of animals. At one point the official mascot of Monteverde was the golden toad. Unfortunately it is now extinct due to a deadly fungus in the region that has also killed other amphibians. I ask our guide if he has noticed the effects of climate change in the region. He told when he first started 20 years ago it would rain every day in the afternoon. Now it's only brief small rain, not the amount the forest needs. I wonder what this place will look like in another 20 years.
The Monteverde bus system runs fairly smoothly and also has a route to neighboring Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve. We catch the bus over for an afternoon hike. Too my surprise the amount of people at this reserve are desolate compared to Monteverde. The small gift shop cafe welcome center has trail cameras of various animals at night that flash on tv screens. Just two week ago a mountain lion was spotted on the trail we are about to walk. This is exciting for a species that was once hunted out of this area. However I am not insane enough to actually want to see one of these big cats up close. The ranger at the park has us fill out a form on which trail we are taking in case we do not return before the park closes. The hike takes up to three hours to complete. This hike feels way more authentic as my nike running shoes slip and sink into the muddy marked trail. The one downside was the insects which are much more intense. An angry wasp like insect is not happy with me for an unknown reason. It stings or bites me multiple times in the back which was still recovering from the sunburn. The casual hike turns into a jogging run place. The air conditioning back at the welcome center feels amazing. We catch our bus back to the city center as the rain starts pouring down. A hot meal of soup at a local spot followed by a hot shower back at the hostel feels like pure bliss. Tomorrow we are checking out to head to La Fortuna. I organize and pack my bag this is how you spend a lot of time when you are traveling every few days. I had previously booked our next housing arrangements while in a small internet cafe. I take in my last night of sleep in the cool misty mountain air.
The next morning we eat our breakfast and wait for our transportation. The tourist trail is so established that there is a system in place for those going to La Fortuna. It is called Jeep Boat Jeep and you see signs for it everywhere. Due to the rugged mountainous terrain of the land northeast of Monteverde the quickest route is to drive to La Fortuna is to head north and take a ferry across Lake Arenal. The jeep is actually a bus with a few other travelers. When we reach the first stopping point for the lake we carry our bags and hop on the boat. The other jeep will meet us on the other side of the lake. Being on the boat is a nice change of pace. It does not take long to cross and we board our next “jeep”. We give our hostel address to the driver and we are actually the first stop just outside of town. The hostel is larger and packed with guests much different than our other accommodations. In the central socializing hang out area near the lobby, guests lounge on lawn furniture while connected to almost every socket for their tablet, computers and phones. The weather is cloudy, but I still change and jump in the large pool. We decide not to explore town and eat at the hostel’s restaurant. At dinner I am surprised and happy to see a German guy we met the first two nights in Monteverde at our hostel. This would be a theme as the trip continued.
The following day we explored the downtown which honestly was not much. The town is set up for tourists and we head to shop and book a rafting tour the next day. I stop at a local art gallery and purchase a pre-Columbian replica made by a woman who uses low fire glazes and styles to embrace the past. The walk back to the hotel is dusty and grimey; a Burger King is packed with customers as we walk by. That night we meet up with people from our hostel and go out to eat. Following dinner we pick up some more snacks and alcohol and head back to the hostel. We play some card games and tell stories. There are lots of characters: two girls from Israel who tell stories of their time spend in the army, a freelance photographer for the Miami Heat, students from Montreal who are on their first backpacking trip. I call it a night after midnight and watch cartoons on the first TV I have had in a room the whole trip.
The next day we are picked up with a van and head out towards a river, which I forgot the name of, for our rafting adventure. Because of the time of the year and recent rains the rivers are rushing fast in speed. We are equipped with life vest and helmets and given directions on how to listen to signals on how to paddle. The guides for each raft have ropes that they will throw to anyone who goes overboard. I had previous experience rafting and tubing before, but this was the best by far. The river carried us at a fast pace there were 10 minutes where I was just paddling trying to catch my breath as water splashed my face. Then there were slower periods where I could even see the toucans in the trees around us. The highlight was the halfway stopping point for fresh pineapple. It was nice to stretch my feet and the pineapple was actually really good. One of the rafting guides really liked my bat tattoo and made sure all the other Costa Ricans saw it. The final stretch was less intense than the beginning but had equally amazing scenery. When we pulled in our rafts, I stepped out in barefeet on the muddy banks. As I took a few more steps a small blue jean poisonous frog hopped on my foot. I freaked out because I had some cuts on me feet and I knew that they can secrete the poison that way into your skin. The guides calmed me down, picked it up, and even held it. Then I held it, let it go, and over thought about what could happen the whole ride back to the hostel.
Back at the hostel we decided to book two more additional nights. This was a mistake and created a funk. We had still not seen a clear view of the Volcano and we never did. Sometimes nature does not want to corporate, and this was the rainy season. We actually were discouraged from other guests to not go to the national park because it just was overrated. In retrospect I should have gone, but my travel companion was starting to worry about spending money. I did not want to waste any on something that he did not want to do.
The following day we walked down a road a few miles to a local waterpark. It was not the most exciting place, but it was relaxing enough and had some natural pools from the Volcano's geothermal activity. We go back to the hostel, and I feel trapped and bored. I am ready to go and feel like I am wasting time here. The large group of people laying around on their phones is annoying. Mainly because I am missing mine which I left at home. Society really is becoming addicted to technology. I settle for a computer at the hostel to get my fix and book our next hostel in Tamarindo.
We book a shuttle through the hostel, a small van with 8 others and pay probably too much for him to drive us to Tamarindo. This time we go north completely around Lake Arenal then west. The trip takes around 4 hours. We head to what we think is our bungalow I booked but have mixed up the names. The hotel owner is really nice and points us confused travelers in the right direction. Finally we found our hostel and check in. The bungaloo is not air conditioned we can upgrade for a different one if we want. My travel companion wants to save money so for the next two nights we suffer through without air con. I am not going to sugarcoat, it was pretty miserable and sweaty. We did go out to eat on the main street that night for dinner. I see a group of travelers I had met a week ago from LA, they waive, I waive, we say hey; it is becoming a smaller world. There are about 7 or so popular bar clubs in this small town. Every night of the week there is a certain special or deal at one of them. Tonight was Thursday so it was the reggae bar’s night. They had the steel drums going strong and Caribbean feel.
The following day we went to the beach. As we headed down the street, we go by a large skate park. It was absolutely packed with kids going up and down the halfpipe. When we got to the beach we noticed large groups of people attending surf camps. Lots of vendors came by to offer a variety of things. This was by far the most populated beach I had been at so far. I walked out to about the waist deep mark in the ocean. It was rocky and difficult to navigate with the waves. The river near the north side of the beach had lots of warnings for crocodiles. In recent years the croc attacks have increased, and the cros have even moved down to some of the areas of the beach. It is becoming a serious problem and I am more than paranoid. I like to see my feet when I am in the ocean. As I continue to wade around the ocean watching my feet I come close to another pale white body. It is a petite girl from Germany. I try to guess her age and she has just turned 19; I’m way off in my guess. She can speak English pretty well and has been here for the last month learning Spanish. Tonight is her class’s last night in Costa Rica and they are going out strong at the club/bar that had the featured drink special she gave me the name. I spend the afternoon relaxing take a nap. We head to the spot and it is packed with every foreigner under 30 staying in Tamarindo. At the top is a large open balcony where pop music that was popular in the United States from about 5 years ago continues to be played by a DJ. The Germans are there, as well as others we have seen in previous cities. I talk to the DJ and make some old school requests he is more than happy to oblige. On the other side of the club is a long packed bar and large dance floor playing Latin music. The floor is buzzing with a mix of Salsa dancers. Most the guys stand around in awe watching probably wishing they had taken dance lesson. I head out with a number of girls and fail miserably. Even if I am making a fool out of myself, this is blast. My travel companion however is pro, and we depart ways for the evening as I head to the other side. As I arrive to the other side a fire dancing group is setting up. There show is surprisingly amazing you can google them PyroDanza to watch but obviously it's way better in person or if you are part of the show.
The following day we depart Tamarindo in a bus like shuttle and head to Nosara. I had heard positive things about Nosara from others and was eager to check it out. About halfway down the coast on the drive our driver stops and takes a break at a local soda. A soda is a traditional Costa Rican restaurant that usual serves buffet style cosado. I am big a fan of these and highly recommend them to anyone. I am always in the mood to eat however it was still too early for everyone else. The bus driver and I went through the line and at this point in the trip I just point and smile at what I want. Although I did make sure I got two chicken drumsticks. We sit in silence and eat together since we really can’t speak to each other, but we are both happy. Returning to the car I am satisfied and relieved the food sits well in my stomach.
Finally we arrive in Nosara!!! Our hostel is located outside the main city center next to a dirt road. The first thing I notice is all the motorcycle drivers wear bananas over their mouths to keep the dust out. We check into our air conditioned bungalow and meet a cheerful host/owner. He is an ex patriot who has retired from the US and runs this hostel and lives here full time. He explains that the Nicoya Peninsula is one of 5 blue zones in the world. Evidently National Geographic and others use the word to describe communities in the world where people live long and healthy lives. There is a lot more to it, in that but it's based on the region’s cultures and food habits as well. We get settled into our room and have a beer and talk more. We sign up for our first surf lesson the following morning. As we continue to talk he tells us that every Saturday night once a month there is a good karaoke and pizza place the locals go too. There is not many people at the hostel so he says he can take us. We were pretty tired but had nothing to do so we agree. We hopped in the back of his truck and took off into the dark jungle. I had to duck from branches as the truck bounced on the bumpy road. We went over rickety bridges. Unfortunately flooding from a couple weeks ago has washed out the power and the karaoke spot was shut down. We drive to a local bar on the beach. We were the only ones there besides three Costa Ricans. However the three men are singing karaoke as they watch a screen projecting YouTube lyrics. There is a dance floor on a concrete slab that has two stray dogs that are swaying back and forth. The ocean is less than 15 feet away I walk down by it to see hundreds of little crabs. A Canadian medical student joined our party and he gives me great advice on southeast Asia. Around midnight we saddle up and head back. I hop in the passenger seat, having made the mistake of riding in the back on the way there.
As we drive back I feel like I have been here before, and maybe I have. When I was four years old I saw my first movie, Jurassic Park. Since then I have watched it plenty of times. I felt like the lush jungle around us still could have dinosaurs in it. After all they did say the movie took place in Costa Rica…I sleep well that night besides the loud howling form howler monkeys outside our bungalow.
The next morning we are greeted by our enthusiastic Costa Rican surf instructor. He has grown up in the area and knows the ocean well. I let him know right away that I am terrible in the water and he smiles. We head down to Nosara beach. The sand is soft there are no large hotels, buildings, or vendors. This place is paradise and it took the whole damn month in Costa Rica to find it. It takes me 2 hours to catch a 4 foot wave and ride it probably less than 15 feet, but it was totally worth it.
That afternoon we head to the Yoga Institute to take a class. Nosara is a huge yoga hot spot and this studio is amazing. You are literally surrounded by beautiful trees and birds and the studio just has a roof and two sides. I struggle with meditation, I get fidgety and my mind is usually too loud to really focus. However after 20 minutes of keeping my feet straight up on the side of the wall I find my inner zen. Following class we explore the downtown and get delicious smoothies. It feels good to cleanse after partying so much in Tamarindo. Our flight is scheduled to leave from San Jose in just a couple of days. It is a bittersweet feeling, I wish I would have spent more time in Nosara. My travel companion is worried about time and wants to play it safe so we need to head back. I am thankful for the time I did spend but dread the long bus rides back to San Jose.
We leave for San Jose taking local buses and transferring at different points to other buses. There is no way I could have done this on my own, without my Spanish speaking travel companion. The day is long and exhausting, but eventually so many hours later after being cramped on a bus, we return to our original hostel where we started.
The following day we explore San Jose more to buy last minute souvenirs and goods. I find a Costa Rican soccer jersey next to a busy market. Besides that the day is a downer. The smell of piss, dirty exhaust, and rainbow shimmering oil going down the sewer is burned into my memory. We actually did got to a really nice beer garden for one last dinner with others from our hostel. San Jose is not my type of place; I miss Nosora and I miss Wisconsin. It’s time to go back.
Two different people could go to the same cities or regions and have two completely different experiences. Costa Rica is a beautiful country. The month I spent there was amazing. However, I never even made it the Carribean side coast. My advice is to make your own way based on your interests if you travel to the land of Pura Vida. Pura Vida translates to simple or pure life. It used to be a common saying on how Costa Ricans live their lives. The youth have different sayings now that do not translate in the same way. I got really sick of hearing it, but still used it, ironically, the whole time. I think it is important to note as I conclude that Costa Rica has an international airport in Liberia so you can avoid San Jose all together if you wish.