Twin Cities
The Twin Cities: Minneapolis and St. Paul, are arguably my favorite metro area in the midwest. Two large cities surrounded by lakes and parks. Even in the negative degree winter weather, cyclist make there way through one of the most bicyclist-friendly places in the country. I spent a brief time living north of St. Paul in 2013. Reflecting on this experience and other visits, I have put together some of my favorite spots, a rough travel guide.
It’s around noon on a cold January day. I pull up at MPLS airport to meet my dad. He’s flying in for the weekend and helping me move out of my apartment. Our first stop from the airport is Quang's Restaurant. This place has authentic Vietnamese food and is one of my favorite spots to eat in the cities. Quang's is always busy. We start with an order of pho a hot Vietnamese broth with rice noodles and beef. Next we try the #407, lemongrass chicken with caramelized onions. This dish is spicy, a perfect way to warm up on a winter day.
After packing everything from my apartment into the truck, we make a stop at Northern Clay Center to pick up some of my artwork. I had been taking a wheel throwing class in the fall, and I highly recommend this place. The staff was extremely welcoming and friendly. If you are not interested in a class, there is a small gallery with claywork for sale.
We make our way to St. Paul for a Wild game. Along the way we stop at the Ax-Man surplus store, a favorite of mine. Filled with eccentric random industrial and consumer goods, this place is a perfect stop for an artist. I recommend a stop just for the browsing.
Minnesota could be a synonym for hockey; it is the state’s favorite sport. Just like the movie, Mighty Ducks, you will see plenty of small rinks around the cities. The atmosphere outside is enthusiastic and the nearby bars roar with noise. Tonight’s game is my first time sitting in the lower level. Coincidentally it's the official Minnesota Hockey Day. It’s a great experience every sports fan should have on their must see list.
Since I left, I have returned a few times for long weekends to visit friends. In the early fall I came up for Festival Palomino, hosted by Trampled by Turtles, my favorite folk Minnesotan band. It was going to be a tradition for my friend Matt and I. This was a special festival for me, it was the first concert my wife and I saw together. However after three years of running, it has since been on hiatus. The music scene is large and visible throughout the city. There’s the iconic First Ave nightclub with stars representing artists who have performed and the large mural that credits famous musicians that got their start in Minnesota including Bob Dylan and of course, Prince. Ask a local about Minneapolis’s hip hop and they'll be sure to mention Atmosphere, a favorite in the cities.
The arts are also a strong component of the Twin Cities. The theatre market is one of the largest per capita in the country. The Guthrie Theatre is worth a visit not just for a show but for the amazing view of skyscrapers and Mississippi River. In northeast Minneapolis, the art district is growing with more visual artists and studios. I visited this area in 2015 to check out some of the craft breweries with friends. One of my best friends and craft beer fan, Matt, was my guide. Matt has lived in the cities area his whole life and runs an Instagram account mnhike that features great hiking spots in Minnesota. That night started at the packed and busy Surly Brewery. They make a variety of great beers, but this place is too large for my taste. Next we headed to Fulton; my favorite beer there was an IPA named Sweet Child of Vine. Ending the night we found a quiet spot to talk at Indeed Brewing Company. Matt’s current favorite beer is Rain Drops from the Barrel Theory Beer Company in St. Paul. If you enjoy speciality beers, the cities are worth the stop.
We finished off the weekend tailgating for a Packers versus Vikings football game. Matt’s brother, a proud Viking season ticket holder, even has the Vikings logo tattooed on his arm. At this time the Vikings were building their new stadium, so they were playing outside at the TCF Bank Stadium. Aa a lone Packer fan, I tailgated in a sea of purple watching as a small atv dragged a dummy Packer player behind. Taking a shuttle over to the game you would think the Vikings were going to the Superbowl, which the city will be hosting in 2018. The same shuttle would later be silent on the way back, as Green Bay came back to win late in the fourth quarter. Minnesota football has a tradition of high expectations followed by disappointment, but they still have a large loyal fan base.
One thing I really like about the cities is checking out new foodie spots. The first time I took my wife here, I had her try her first Minnesota Jucy Lucy, a staple. A Jucy Lucy is a meat patty with the cheese stuff inside instead of the top. This results with a melted cheese-filled burger. Please exercise caution when trying a Jucy Lucy, it is very easy to burn your mouth. My last trip here, in spring 2017, Matt treated me to a brunch at Rival. They serve authentic Southern style fried chicken with waffles. It’s overwhelmingly delicious, so we stuff our faces while seated at bar. Our waitress recommends the fried green tomatoes which I clean off the plate even though I'm stuffed. Following brunch we head over to MPLS tattoo. I get a custom neo-traditional wolf tattoo. The woman who is tattooing me immigrated from France to the United States a couple years ago. It quite clear she loves living in Minneapolis. My childhood friend Mitch, who lives nearby stops by the shop to say hi. He recently moved to Minneapolis and works at the Minnesota Institute of Art. I love this art museum, and the following day Matt and I check out the Guerrero del Toro exhibition. To end the weekend we stop in Uptown for dinner at Chino Latino. This restaurant has a mix of spicy and sweet food dishes from around the world. I noticed a lot of different takes on Asian foods. The portions are large, and it’s a lively atmosphere. It’s a perfect way to end the weekend.
I hope my Minnesota friends get a laugh out of reading how I describe their home. Since the stereotype of being Minnesotan and nice is mostly true, I don’t have a lot of fear writing this. I am sure there are many more gems that I have yet to discover.